The main dimensions associated with waves are:
Five factors influence the formation of the flow structures in wind waves: The great majority of large breakers seen at a beach result from distant winds. NOAA ship Delaware II in bad weather on Georges Bank The key statistics of wind waves (both seas and swells) in evolving sea states can be predicted with wind wave models.Īlthough waves are usually considered in the water seas of Earth, the hydrocarbon seas of Titan may also have wind-driven waves.
They can be described as a stochastic process, in combination with the physics governing their generation, growth, propagation, and decay – as well as governing the interdependence between flow quantities such as: the water surface movements, flow velocities and water pressure. Wind waves have a certain amount of randomness: subsequent waves differ in height, duration, and shape with limited predictability. Wind waves in the ocean are also called ocean surface waves, and are mainly gravity waves. They have been generated elsewhere and some time previously. Swell consists of wind-generated waves that are not significantly affected by the local wind at that time. A noteworthy example of this are waves generated south of Tasmania during heavy winds that will travel to southern California producing desirable surfing conditions. After moving out of the area of fetch, wind waves are called swells and can travel thousands of kilometres. Wind waves will travel in a great circle route after being generated – curving slightly left in the southern hemisphere and slightly right in the northern hemisphere. When directly generated and affected by local wind, a wind wave system is called a wind sea. Wind waves on Earth range in size from small ripples, to waves over 30 m (100 ft) high, being limited by wind speed, duration, fetch, and water depth.
Waves in the oceans can travel thousands of kilometres before reaching land. Wind waves result from the wind blowing over a fluid surface, where the contact distance in the direction of the wind is known as the fetch.
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In fluid dynamics, a wind wave, or wind-generated wave, is a water surface wave that occurs on the free surface of bodies of water. Video of large waves from Hurricane Marie along the coast of Newport Beach, California